Method of cold waving hair and product therefor



July 11, 1961 A, BON|LLA 2,991,790

METHOD OF COLD WAVING HAIR AND PRODUCT THEREF OR Filed May 28, 1958 WW f5 TIA- mor/My y ATTORNEY United States Patent() 2,991,790 Y METHOD F COLD WAVING HAIR AND PRODUCT THEREFOR Antonio Bonilla, 149 E. 57th St., New York 22, N.Y. Filed May 28, 1958, Ser. No. 738,444 6 Claims. (Cl. I132-7) This invention relates to a method for permanently waving human hair, and more particularly to end papers for said process.

Known to me is the method of permanently waving hair on the living human scalp referred to as cold lwaving which involves the use of hair waving compositions in which mercapto acetic acid or thioglycollc acid, together with ammonia, in an aqueous solution, is used permanently to change the configuration of the hair on the human scalp without damage, which treatment is believed to involve the reorientation of the sulfide bond of the keratin constituents of the hair and, after relaxation of the bond, the hair is oxidized to develop the wave to the desired form. Generically and specifically, examples of such mercaptan cold permanent waving solutions are exemplified in the patents to McDonough 2,736,323 and Brown 2,688,972, and perhaps others.

Repeated use of this procedure is accompanied by an over-exposure of the hair ends, which ends retain the effect of the prior hair waving treatments. Such ends, when subjected to a renewed cold waving treatment of the character described, exhibit undue curling, frizzing, harshness and dryness because frequent winding by the Croquignole method is believed unduly to 4stress and over-expose the hair ends in renewing or repeating the cold waving procedure.

Known to me is the use of so-called end papers which are impregnated with emollients for the hair in an effort to restore their natural appearance and properties to hair ends which have been previously treated. Such emollients, of which lanolin is an example, are not resistant to the superimposed cold waving solutions, to minimize the damaging effect of repeated applications thereof because of What I believe to be attributable in part to a concentration of the lotion on the core or center of the curl, with consequent excessive exposure of the hair ends, rather than a shielding of the hair ends from the augmented addition of the cold waving lotion by the end paper.

In accordance with =my invention, I have found that with an initial relaxation of the hair ends, as by exposure to a diluent for the lotion, particularly where the ends form the core, as in the Croquignole wind, that the repeated or renewed cold waving operation may be practiced without deleteriously affecting the hair ends and, in fact, improve the appearance of the ends previously subjected to cold waving preparations, to provide a highly aesthetic appearance and a yrevival of the natural softness and lusterofthe hair ends.

Stillmore particularly, I have discovered that'anunduly tight wave at the hair ends, which is evidenced by frizzing and loss of sheen, may be overcome by including in the end papers a component which tends to dilute the lotion which is applied at the core and differentially relaxes the hair ends as compared with the more concentrated form of lotion which is applied upon the fully wound convolutions of hair strand.

Still further phases of my invention will become apparent as this description proceeds.

To attain these objects and such further objects as may appear herein or be hereinafter pointed out, I make reference to the accompanying drawing, forming a part hereof, in which- FIGURE l is a perspective view illustrating the initial step in the practice of my invention;

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FIGURE 2 is a secondary step in the same;

FIGURES 3 and 4 are perspective views illustrating' the concluding steps of practicing my invention. i

For a clearer understanding of my invention, I exemplify the cold waving in connection with the process and product herein described as that which may involve the use of a lotion of mercapto acetic acid and ammonia. Such lotions contemplated by me are -those exemplified in the aforesaid patents to McDonough and Brown and may, in the preferred form, constitute a thioglycollic acid solution in water, to provide a lotion of from about 2 to 10% thioglycollic acid, with the addition of ammonia to achieve a pH of between about 7 to 9.5, and preferably about pH 9.2, with a 5% concentration of thioglycollic acid.

The mercaptan compounds available for this purpose have now been explored by the aforesaid patentees and others in published literature and in the trade to the point that it is believed sufficient to refer to the class of such compounds as mei-captan cold waving lotions. My expe'- rience with such lotions and the manner in whichthey are prescribed to be used include the step of dampening the hair with water as part of separating a tress thereof preparatory to cold waving, soaking the tress with a cold waving solution while combing, holding an end paper around the tress, which is then slid in position to cover the free ends of the hair, and winding upon the curler rod by a Croquignole winding, i.e. to roll the curler beginning with the ends to adjacent the scalp. Such procedure tends to concentrate the lotion preparation, under tension, at the core of the curler, to effect an undesirable over-treatment of the ends, a result which this invention seeks to overcome.

I now refer to the drawings, wherein there is shown a fragment of a scalp 10 in which a tress of hair 11, having ends 12 (which have previously been cold waved) which are to be subjected to my process. For this purpose, the tress 11, which may have been recently shampooed, is moistened or `dampened with water and combed in the direc-tion away from the scalp 10 toward vthe ends 12. In this position, I lay the tress ends 12 upon about one half of an end paper 13 so as to have one section 14 underlie the tress ends, and the other half section 15 extend to one side of a fold line 16, which latter section is then folded in superimposed position upon the firstv section 14 to sandwich the hair ends between the sections' 14 and 15. A quadrangular section of paper about '2" x 3 will normally su-iiice.

I have found that an end paper having the following qualities is preferred: a fiber content of about 50% rag and 50% coniferous wood fiber, with a wet strength agent to give porosity or zero air resistance, .with a bursting strength (Mullen) of about 10 pounds per square inch, having absorption characteristics as follows: when immersed in water for sixty seconds and allowed t0 drain for sixty seconds, its weight would be 5 grams per gram of paper. y t

- Cotton surgical gauze may, in a measure, beemployed,

but I prefer the paper as described.

In one form of my invention, the paper as thus provided is wetted with water, to pick up its full capacity to absorb water when dipped into and withdrawn from the water. In this condition of moisture, the paper is applied to the tress, as shown in FIGURE 2 of the drawing. Thereupon the curler rod 17 is traversed across the end paper, constraining the hair ends, and the tress is wound in `Croquignole winding fashion to provide the curl 18, with the end paper 13 and the ends 12 of the tress encased therein forming the core of the curl. Thereupon the tie 19 of the curler rod, anchored at 20, is drawn across the curl 18 to anchor the curl by latching the end 21 of the tie 19 in the clevis 22 of the curler. A plurality of such tresses are treated to provide a completely curled head, as shown at 23, as will be understood.

Thereupon, cold waving lotion may be daubed upon the curls 23 in the manner prescribed for this kind of operation, along the entire length of the hair curled on the curler rod. The process is permitted to go to cornpletion as may be prescribed with the particular cold waving solution involved, before rinsing and drying and/ or neutralizing or oxidizing.

By following the aforesaid procedure, utilizing an end paper as described, an initial relaxation of the ends of the hair is secured under tension by means of a more dilute condition of the lotion at the core where the hair ends are located, than throughout the balance of the tress. This is particularly important for hair which has been previously treated with a cold waving preparation and in which the free ends still exhibit the effects of the prior treatment.

While I have described and illustrated in one embodiment of my invention the Croquignole winding of the hair with a core winding of the end paper with a diluent of Water to secure a differential relaxation of the hair from the core to the scalp of the hair being treated, it will be understood that certain desirable phases of my invention may be secured by saturating the end paper with a dilution of lotion in water. For this purpose, a small amount of the full strength prepared lotion which may, as previously indicated, vary from 2 to 10%, is diluted six fold with water. The end paper of the porosity as described is dipped in this dilute solution of the lotion before the winding of the tress is commenced, in a manner as previously described.

By the procedure described, one need not trim the ends of the hair before waving if the hair has been previously subjected to cold wave treatment, a procedure recommended by cold wave lotion manufacturers, but one may proceed to carry out the cold waving treatment with the mercaptan lotions as referred to directly, without the danger of the deleterious effect of excessive treatment of the hair ends.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave on the living human scalp with the use of aqueous lotions of thioglycollic acid of a concentration between 2 to 10% of the thioglycollic component and ammonia to achieve a pH from 7 to 9.5, the steps which include winding the hair upon a carrier saturated with a one sixth fractional aqueous dilution of said lotion, and then applying the lotion of the rst mentioned strength to the hair to permit the ends and new growth to become differentially treated before completing the procedure of neutralizing and oxidizing the hair so treated.

2. In the method of cold permanent waving upon the living human scalp with the use of aqueous lotions of mercapto cold waving compounds on hair ends previously so treated and on new growth of hair simultaneously to secure a selective partial treatment on the hair ends compared with the new growth of hair, the steps which include encasing the hair ends in absorbent sheeting carrying a solution comprising primarily an aqueous diluent for the cold hair waving lotion, winding the hair on the sheeting to form the sheeting as a core for the windings and then applying the lotion to the hair to permit the ends and new growth to become differentially treated before completing the procedure of neutralizing and oxidizing the hair so treated.

3. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave on the living human scalp with tbe use of aqueous solutions of mercapto cold waving compounds, the steps which include encasng the hair ends between layers of absorbent paper of substantially porosity, saturated with water, to provide an aqueous diluent of the compounds, winding the hair about the absorbent sheeting and then completing the application of the cold waving compounds before neutralizing and oxidizing the hair so treated.

4. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave on the living human scalp with the use of aqueous lotions of thioglycollic acid in ammonia of a concentration between 2 to 10% of the thioglycolate component and of a pH from 7 to 9.5, the steps which include encasing the hair ends between layers of absorbent sheeting carrying a solution comprising primarily an aqueous diluent of the compounds in the proportions of 6 parts of water to l part of the compound, to saturate the sheeting, winding the hair about the absorbent sheeting and then complet ing the application of the cold Waving compounds before neutralizing and oxidizing the hair so treated.

5. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave on the living human scalp to hair ends which have previously been subjected to cold permanent Waving treatments by the use of aqueous lotions of a mercapto cold waving compound on hair ends previously so treated and on new growth of hair simultaneously to secure a selective partial treatment on the hair ends compared with the new growth of hair, the steps which include encasing said ends between layers of absorbent sheeting carrying a solution comprising primarily an aqueous diluent for the cold hair waving lotion, winding the hair upon said sheeting and then applying the lotion to the hair before neutralizing and oxidizing the hair so treated.

6. In the method of providing a cold permanent wave on the living human scalp with the use of waving compounds on hair ends previously so treated and on new growth of hair simultaneously to secure a selective partial treatment on the hair ends compared with the new growth of hair, the steps which include winding the hair upon a core carrying a solution comprising primarily a diluent for the waving compound and then applying the compound to the hair before neutralizing and oxidizing the hair so treated.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,041,641 Grasso May 19, 1936 2,624,347 Melaro Jan. 6, 1953 2,688,972 Brown Sept. 14, 1954 2,794,440 Levie June 4, 1957 2,832,357 Powers Apr. 29, 1958 2,839,066 Saunders June 17, 1958 

